Sparkling early morning sunshine beams down and glistens off gentle turquoise waves, as they slowly lap against the side of the pier. I stand in the shadow of a beautiful yet imposing 19^th century lighthouse, in awe of a spectacular view I never thought the British seaside was capable of. It’s just after 8:00am, and vehicles are slowly starting to wind their way through the rows of unique houses, cafes and shops that carpet the hillside, as St. Ives’ locals and tourists begin to wake for another day of glorious sunshine. A pungent stench of fish floats heavily in the air, yet here it almost feels comforting, typifying the area as a whole, whilst the loud and recognisable screeches of seagulls echo up and down quaint cobbled streets. Already there are signs of the crowded hustle and bustle of midday, as artisan shops and cafes begin to open their doors, and dogs sprint up and down the beach, spraying sand and salt water high into the crisp morning air.

From the end of Smeaton’s Pier, you can see a stunning panoramic view of St. Ives and the surrounding area, which served as a fitting end to my Cornish holiday. Read on to experience Cornwall’s staggering beauty, not-so-attractive sights, and the feeling of staying off-grid and rural in this account of my staycation in the county, which shows the highs, lows, and bits in between of one of Britain’s most unique and special corners.

St. Ives from a distance and from a different pier

The Landpod

In many ways, my accommodation made the trip. Nestled in a stunningly quiet and pretty woodland, with a spectacular view of nearby Hayle and Lelant, Wildflower Wood couldn’t have been a much better place to stay. When they decided to make a business out of their woodland, the owners of Beersheba Farm chose to use Landpod, an extremely high-quality British glamping company, whose cosy, toilet-less wigwam-like structures are perfect for staying off-grid. Fitted with a large rechargeable power pack and a few lights (you’re told to bring your own), the Landpod gives you the refreshing minimum required for a rustic experience. The one-with-nature feeling it offers is typified with the sides of the structure, with lift up to reveal a mosquito-proof netting, which, if you want, can be the only thing separating one side of you from the woodland whilst you sleep.

Wildflower Wood was a truly unique experience, from the “dry toilet” (one hole for one thing that goes down the toilet, one for the other), to the idyllic feeling of cooking, relaxing and sleeping in the great outdoors. Many in the modern world need a week without high-quality internet and connection to mains electricity, as well as he opportunity to feel nature. It’s a very different experience to a swanky resort on the beach, but its one that possibly challenges it for all-round quality, especially for a staycation.

Wildflower Wood is a short drive/walk from the beautiful, unspoilt village of Lelant, and larger town of Hayle, however Carbis Bay is closest, and separates it from St Ives. You may have heard of this particular town after it hosted the 2021 G7 summit (you may remember a socially distanced photo of world leaders on the beach), however it offers much more than the name of a meeting. The South-West Coast Path runs through the town, offering spectacular views of the stunning hill-side houses and beautiful large beach. If you’re after a different and fulfilling alternative to the typical beach holiday in Cornwall, then staying off-grid in a Landpod in Wildflower Wood is something you should seriously consider.

Views from the coast path, G7 lodges, an Eden Pod from the Landpod website (so not the place I stayed), and the beach in Hayle

St Ives

Stunningly clear turquoise waters. Quaint narrow streets full to the brim with artisan businesses. Sunlight glistening off golden sand. Charming houses sat on lush green hillside. The picture painted by those sentences certainly isn’t the typical “British seaside” image, but it is St Ives, Cornwall.

Walking down the main road through Carbis Bay towards St Ives, just as the land starts to slope down towards the sea, a gap in the hillside houses suddenly reveals a shockingly beautiful view. I can see Porthminster Beach, which although it is covered almost completely by tourists as British beaches often are in this beautiful weather, it certainly isn’t an ordinary British beach. Astonishingly clear cyan water laps gently onto sun-reflecting white sand, whilst further inland is a comfortingly old-style train station, which is largely restricted from my view by verdant green bushes and palm trees. This is a setting that can’t possibly be British- surely, I’m describing somewhere in the Mediterranean, maybe even the Caribbean, but no it is St Ives, Cornwall.

When I start walking down into the main part of the town, I’m immediately surrounded by unique independent shops from both sides of the street- a made-on-site jewellers, Cornwall-themed clothes shop, a painting shop, a shop for dogs. There’s also a number of delis and bakeries putting their own twist on Cornish cuisine, as well as many ice cream parlours, a flapjack shop, a fudge pantry, and much more. Adults can quench their thirst in shops selling authentic Cornish whiskeys, gins and rums (made in the county of course). St Ives’ maze of narrow cobbled streets give every type of person a superb experience, and paired with the harbour, the town is a must-visit.

Beautifully mismatched buildings, housing fabulous bars and restaurants (and of course, fish and chip shops), frame a picturesque marina-like structure, perfected by the charm of a 19^th century lighthouse. This enclosed area creates an ideal location for people to brave the cold of the sea, which unlike the setting itself, does not have the feeling of somewhere abroad such as the Mediterranean. There’s often a pretty correct stereotype of the British seaside, however St Ives is a stunning exception to the rule. In many ways, its outstanding beaches, winding cobbled streets, and charming marina makes it feel like a staycation that’s abroad.

Various parts of St Ives, including Porthminster Beach

Newquay and Penzance

At the beginning of this article, I said that I’d write about the highs, the lows, and bits in between of Cornwall- it’s time for the second part. As someone from Lincolnshire, a county that houses stunning seaside holiday hotspots such as Skegness, Grimsby, and Mablethorpe, there’s a pretty vivid image of the typical UK coastal town in my mind- sea you don’t want to swim in, cheap tatty shops and cafes, and outdated theme parks and attractions. St. Ives really began to change my perception- right before Penzance and Newquay snapped it back again.

I really hope it doesn’t, but this section is probably going to be a little offensive to people from these two towns, even if it certainly isn’t their fault. They weren’t horrible places to visit, however they were miles away from the St Ives experience, so I believe its right to point this out. I may be venturing into larger issues here, however Newquay is often called one of Cornwall’s finest destinations, but I think it’s a beautiful area spoilt by commercialisation. The main street of St Ives is full of independent, quirky, high-quality businesses that create a superb holiday experience, however when walking down the main road of Newquay, I was surrounded by vape shops, supermarkets and other commercial chains.

It was also incredibly busy when I visited, due to a nearby festival, which was bussing in hundreds of young adults. It was clear to me that Newquay is a destination spoilt by the effects of over tourism. Heading down a side-street, I began to pass the unique shops and independent cafes that make St Ives so brilliant, and when I made it to the sea, I was met with the sight of a stunning beach, and once again, shockingly clear water. It’s just such a shame that the main street really isn’t the experience you want on a holiday.

Penzance’s high street was a lot nicer than that of Newquay, however it appeared to lack the beaches and natural beauty of nearby standards. Once again however, it was no match to St Ives. To explain it well, I struggled to get any photos, because every three or four buildings there was a shop I didn’t want in it- vape shops, chains etc. I must mention however that Penzance does feature some extremely nice shops as well- there was a great range of coffee shops, independent arty businesses, and one bakery that did by far the best pasties I saw on my trip. It’s just such a shame they were mixed in with shops that ruin the scene.

I compared both of these destinations to the main high-street of the closest city to me, Lincoln- despite stunning cobbled streets featuring charming businesses and a modern revamped area, the actual high-street is generally accepted to be dying due to the effects of commercialisation and chain retailers. Out of Newquay and Penzance, the latter is the one I’d recommend if you’re in western Cornwall- there, you can find dozens of fantastic places to eat and shop, but just not in the same setting are purity of St Ives. As for the latter, other than a few nice beaches, I’m not sure why people go back time and time again.

A couple of streets in Penzance, and St Michael’s Mount in the distance (the best photo opportunity I got in Penzance was somewhere miles away)

Land’s End

The line between spectacular rugged cliffs and crashing deep blue waves stretches far into the distance. This doesn’t just feel like the end of England- it feels like the edge of the world. Rolling green hills appear to suddenly drop off into churning waters below, before this vast expanse of blue stretches far to the horizon, with nothing else in sight. Other than a tourist building on site, there’s not much sign of human life to blot the beautiful rural landscape, which is conditioned perfectly by gentle rays of yellow sunlight.

There’s a mystical feeling when visiting Land’s End- it’s the most westerly point in England, and its blockbuster landscape adds to this “edge of the world” allure. The First and Last Inn typifies the significance of this place, and emphasises its status as a must-see for anyone visiting Cornwall. On site, there is a distinctive-looking visitors centre that houses crazy golf, the interactive “Grand Experience” by Aardman and a 4D film experience, as well as Greeb Farm, which is just a short walk along the headland, and has a small collection of lovable animals. Of course, there’s also a brilliant photo opportunity at the Iconic Signpost- it stands proud on the edge of the rugged cliff, and the furthest west point in England.

I visited Land’s End at 9:00am on a Saturday morning, meaning that it was parkrun. Perhaps only the legendary Bushy parkrun (the first ever) beats in terms of experience in the UK, and despite being deceptively hilly, the view certainly made up for it. One of the things I found most stunning about Land’s End is the lack of human settlement- Penzance is the closest town, being around 20 minutes away, with small villages and quaint standalone houses sitting in between. It was quite refreshing to see a lack of commercialisation at such a big landmark, with it only amounting to a pillar-fronted building housing a small crazy golf course and cinema. Land’s End is unquestionably a stand out destination to see when in Cornwall, especially given its fame throughout the nation for being the end of England.

Land’s End visitors centre and landscape

Cheddar Gorge

Cheddar Gorge is of course in Somerset, not Cornwall, however I visited on the way home and its magnificence means that I just had to include it in this post. Situated next to the charming village of Cheddar (yes the cheese is from there), the gorge is one of Britain’s underrated marvels of nature. Imposing masses of rock almost suddenly tower towards the sky, like a cliff without sea below it, with a large gap snaking through, created by melting in the last Ice Age.

It’s a tough walk, especially on a warm day, however the jaw-dropping view at the top is worth it. Relatively flat surroundings mean that you can see for miles on end- green fields dotted with emerald trees frame the quaint village of Cheddar, which sits beautifully next to a shimmering azure lake. Just seeing the gorge itself from the top is a sight to behold, as you can really then acknowledge its true magnitude, with it quite literally appearing as though a giant has raised the stone hundreds of feet from the ground and then allowed nature to stunningly take over. When walking to one of its many breath-taking viewpoints, my surroundings actually looked like Italy (probably not when its raining or freezing cold though).

If you’d prefer to be awe-inspired underground, then Cheddar Gorge also features many fascinating caves, giving visitors a unique sense of exploration. Spectacular rock formations, astonishing water pools and eerie skeletons lie out of sunlight’s reach. The village of Cheddar and its Gorge is a brilliant pitstop for people travelling to or from Cornwall, as it’s a spectacularly magnificent location that just shouldn’t be missed- nature’s pure immensity cannot be seen much better anywhere else in England.

How Cornwall defied my expectations

The United Kingdom has always had a pretty bad hand when the staycation cards are dealt. Taking breaks in cities like London, Manchester, Birmingham, Glasgow and Edinburgh out of the equation, options are limited. Obviously, there’s areas of stunning beauty, such as the Peak and Lake Districts, the Cotswolds and the Chilterns, as well as Yorkshire amongst other areas, however these places are hardly a Summer beach holiday. Take it from someone who lives in Lincolnshire- the east coast doesn’t particularly offer cocktails under palm-trees on the beach either. This is why we look south- counties like Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, and Kent, as well as major towns and cities such as Bournemouth and Brighton offer the British people a rare taste of clear water and stifling heat (albeit for a couple of months only). For many, Cornwall is the pick of the bunch. Despite this, nearly everyone that can afford to go abroad almost always goes overseas. Perhaps its time we look a little closer and appreciate what we’ve got on our own island.

Yes, many are put off by the typical British seaside image, which is supported by towns like Newquay, however St Ives proves that there are indeed stunning exceptions to the trend. Personally, I was shocked by Cornwall’s sheer coastal beauty. It was by far the most enticing sea I’ve seen in this country, and the colour alone was something I wasn’t sure was possible here. It was refreshing to see smaller, local independent businesses thriving throughout St Ives, rather than the chains of Newquay. It was also reinvigorating to take a holiday off-grid and truly amongst nature, rather than in a fancier beach resort. As someone who often travels abroad to far-flung places such as Vietnam and Costa Rica, whilst staying in larger hotels, my trip to Cornwall revealed what the UK actually has to offer in terms of holiday experience. Of course, I’d rather be strolling down a street in Ho Chi Minh, or ziplining through the jungle in Costa Rica, however exploring the mazy streets of St Ives, and running up and down hills at Land’s End certainly isn’t bad either.  

What really struck me about Cornwall itself wasn’t its spectacular coastal scenery, it was its spirit and identity. From the abundance of black flags with a white cross, to the plethora of Rodda’s milk and “Made in Cornwall” produce, it really did appear that the people of the county are truly proud to be Cornish- I’ve never seen anything like it in England. Perhaps this sense of identity isn’t the same as the likes of Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland, however it was really intriguing and special to see. In short, it wasn’t just Cornwall that defied my expectations- it was British staycations in themselves, the UK’s coastal beauty, and even my accommodation. As I draw this article to a close, hopefully you’ve experienced the highs, lows, and bits in between of one of Britain’s most unique and special corners.

A few pictures I took from the coastal path

Thankyou for reading this post on the Your World Explored blog by me, Lewis Defraine. I hope you enjoyed experiencing my trip to Cornwall as much as I did- if you’d like to read about a more far-flung holiday, feel free to look at Where Chaos is Normal- Ho Chi Minh City. To support an aspiring, young, independent journalist, feedback in the comments section, a like, or even free subscription would be greatly appreciated.